Motorcycles constantly whizz up and down Sisowath Quay. As night falls the flow of traffic only increases as young couples and giggling girls and boys- often three and even four to a bike- cruise Phnom Penh's riverside.
Those numbers are further swelled by families seeking to picnic on the banks of the Tonle Sap river. And it's possible that a family of six could turn up with their packed-dinner on one motorcycle.
Yes, 6 on a motorcycle! Across from the Quay and the river there are a number of restaurants and bars and it is one of the pleasures of Phnom Penh to be able to retreat to one of these and smack your lips over an icy beer. And once you have worked you way through half of that beer it's time to start looking for six-on-a-bike!
It's strangely hypnotic (although undoubtedly the beer has an effect) scanning the busy street for a motorcycle crammed with six people. But it's worth the small effort to see how it is done; be watchful though, they don't come along all that often.
* Yes, I know the photo only shows five on a bike. Imagine one of the two ladies at the back holding a baby rather than those pesky plastic bags and you'll get the idea.